– Early in the morning, we were off on a 3 hour bus ride to Copacabana to see Lake Titicaca, which is the third highest navigable lake in the world. We didn`t know we would stop part way, get off the bus to take a speed boat across the lake while our bus took a floating “raft” (dare I call it a boat?) to the other side. Strange, but that was the only way across so we followed the crowd and boarded a small boat for the 5 minute journey across.
Copacabana
– We didn`t have a place to stay in Copacabana as none of the hotels or hostels have email address, but I was sure we would find a place since its off season and we did. I was so tired and had no interest in walking around, and fell asleep really quickly once I was in the room. Colin had energy so I he went to explore and see the big church as I really didn`t care to see another church and he loved them. So happy day with my nap and his sightseeing. Funny part as we met for lunch, I went back to the room after lunch for another nap and Colin went to climb the huge hill for the view. When he came back an hour later…he said that was one of the most physically challenging things (besides the volcano in Pucon) that he has ever done. At that point, I knew I chose wisely by staying in and napping!
Isla del Sol
– The next morning we were off on a small boat to Isla del Sol. I was expecting a lot of sun as this was known as the birthplace of the sun and is the island that Lake Titicaca takes it`s name. Now…we didn`t have much sun, but still loved the island.
– First problem when we got off the boat…I looked up and saw so many stone stairs, and the locals said it was a 45 minute climb to the top where the hotels were. I had no idea of this as no one told us, no guide book mentioned this and I had my big bag with me. I must have had a look of sheer panic on my face and I really didn`t want to proceed. Colin was trying to be nice and figure out what to do…and I said I really wanted to get back on the boat and head back to Copacabana as I couldn`t carry my bag up all those stairs and climb for 45 minutes. I thought I was about to cry as in a year of travels, I have never been up against such a climb with my bag. As luck would have it, there were local men there that wanted to show us hotels (as they may get a commission) and I didn`t care as one of them offered to carry my bag…and any tip would have been worth it to me. So up we climbed and the little man had my 24 kilo (55 pound bag) on his back leading the charge. Thank goodness for him!!!
– We finally settle into a hotel overlooking the lake and its perfect and we even found the guy to be a guide for us the next day for a 3 hour trek of the island. So after another nap (so tired from the altitude), an hour long lunch (as it takes that long to cook anything in Bolivia), Colin and I were off to trek the southern part of the island and find the Palace del Inca which was a two story palace of ruins. For me, the best part was the hour trek along little donkey trails. As we were walking, 5 little kids came up to me and wanted me to take their photo and one little boy, maybe 3 years old had a folded $1 US bill. He asked me for cinco Bolivianos for the bill (as there are no change areas on this island). The going rate is 7 BS to $1US, but all I had was 5 BS and that is what he wanted so he was happy and I felt like I was stealing candy from a baby…but I knew I was helping him get money to spend (on candy I assume). The ruins were nice with many little rooms and the location over looking Lake Titicaca was amazing, so a great afternoon trip.
– That night, we were awoken from a dead sleep at 2am as it was pouring rain. This worried me for our long trek in the morning and when we woke up, the dirt paths were a little soggy and I didn´t think it was wise to head out for 3 hours in rain and mud. The final straw was during breakfast it started to pour a lot and then large hail fell and it even fell directly on our breakfast table through a little hole in the ceiling. At this point, Colin agreed that we should call off the 3 hour trek and take the boat to the north to see the ruins there.
– So 45 minute trekking down to the port, and we find out there are no public boats to the north (yet we were told there were). We would have to hire a private boat for 200 BS ($30). Luckily we made friends with a French mother and daughter the day before and they were doing the same thing so we shared the private boat and were on our way. They didn`t want to spend that much money and it finally took me breaking this down to 50 BS a person or $7 a person or 4 Euro each. I asked if seeing this other part of the island was worth 4 Euro and they decided it was. Quick math saved Colin and me some money.
The Chincana Ruins
– The north has the main ruins that Colin wanted to see and after an hour trekking, in the rain and mud, we reached the ruins. First stop was the Mesa Cermonica. This was used for human and animal sacrifices and today is used as a picnic table.
– Next we looked at the large rock known as Titicaca or Titi Khar`ka to the locals. This means Rock of the Puma. I think I see the Puma head on the left side and the crouching Puma legs to the right….but who knows…it was a large rock.
– The main feature to the ruins known as Palacio del Inco and it`s a maze of stone walls and tiny doorways (that I didn`t fit under without lots of bending down). We had fun running around here, in the pouring rain as this was the hardest it rained. Go figure that the Sun island rains the one day we really want to explore. Nonetheless…the ruins were great and the trek there and back was better. We got to see the island by gray gloomy rain and then shiny happy sun as well on the way back.
– That last night we slept on Isla del Sol, it poured non-stop from 2am till 7am and I was dreading having to walk down the hill and stairs to the boat in the morning. Since it took 30-45 minutes to climb, with no bags, Colin and I decided to allow 90 minutes to go down with both of us carrying my bag. I was secretly hoping we would find a local on the way that wanted to make some money and carry it. After Colin and I walked for 15 minutes down the easier and flatter part, we did find a man. I was willing to pay anything not to carry my bag…especially that last half that is steep and slippery with rocks. Just then, a man appeared and offered to help. Colin was thinking we were fine to carry it as we were doing ok…but I didn´t agree. In the end, at the bottom, Colin agreed that was smart of us to pay the man to carry it! The man asked how much to carry it, and I offered 30 BS ($4.50) and he was thrilled. He made a little backpack with a sheet and carried it down rather quickly. I told Colin next time I want a latte…I won´t as that payment for my bag was the same price as a latte!
– So back to Copacabana by boat, then bus to La Paz. Our 7am wake up call and non-stop traveling that day finally got us to our hotel in La Paz at 6pm. So tired, but we planned a day of rest on Friday the 10th. This happens to be Good Friday, and a very holy day in La Paz, so everything is closed and we are happy to relax with TV in our hotel room.
– Finally leaving South America and heading north to Central America. Off to Costa Rica tomorrow on April 11th!
Logistics
Copacabana hotel – Hostel Colonial del Lago at www.titicaca-bolivia.com Simple hotel for 80BS for the room ($11)
Isla del Sol hotel – Inti-Kala Hotel tel: 76213014 or 71944013. No email on island. Great little hotel overlooking the lake…quite a trek up but worth it for 2 nights. 160 BS for the room ($23 for the room)