Cuba Part 4 (Cinefuego) – June 2009

– Arriving in the city of Cinefuego was the start of a downward spiral for my time in Cuba. As soon as I pulled into the bus station, everything started to get bad and then became worse, and this this was the starting point for my dislike of parts of Cuba!

– So backing up a little, I finally decided I needed to move on from Trinidad and was on quick 90 minute bus north to the city of Cinefuego. This was supposed to be another quaint colonial city on the water and was the jumping off place to get to El Niche National Part with one of the best kept secrets in an amazing waterfall. I had arranged a casa in advanced and the owner said he would meet me at the bus station. So when I got off the bus, there was no sign for me, I was disappointed. I looked all over the bus station, but nothing so I decided to try to find it on my own (as I knew it was close and there were no taxi’s). Too bad it was raining, and I walked the wrong way a few times. I finally found the right street and started walking when I finally heard, “Megan…is that you?”. I always am surprised when I hear my name in other countries but it ended up being the man that owned the casa I was heading towards. That’s when he told me his casa was full, but of course…he had a friend that he made arrangements with for me to stay. So I was a little upset as I would have made other arrangements, but in the end, the casa worked out and the owners were nice and spoke a little English. Only issue was they smoked so much and really smelled of smoke, but it was their house and I didn’t care to find another place for just a night or two.

– Since I knew I wanted to go see El Nicho Waterfall, I headed directly to the tour companies to see if I could get on the tour for the next day. Sadly, I found out there has to be at least 4 people to go and right now there was no one. The lady thought by the end of the day she would have more people and she took my casa’s number and said she would call. It was frustrating as I was only one person and I asked about other transport options and there aren’t (unless I wanted to pay aver $150 for a private taxi which I couldn’t).

– So I decided to head out to wander the town a little and find the boat dock as I wanted to take the ferry to an island with a castle on it. The man at my casa told me where it was and when the boat left, my guide book had the same info, so I felt good about finding it. Too bad half the streets in town were blocked off for construction so I took the long way around. Then when I got to the right street, nothing had street numbers, there were no signs for the ferry and I ended up walking up and down the street (as there was no one to ask). After about 30 minutes of looking, I finally gave up. Of course right then I saw a police guard and asked him and he pointed out the ferry building (no sign and just a parking lot with a bench in it). Who would know that was a ferry building or a ticket window? On top of that, the last ferry (with no return that afternoon) was 4 hours later. So I missed that trip and was more frustrated.

– At this point, it’s about 2pm and I’m frustrated, hot and tired. There really wasn’t anything else I wanted to see in this town outside of this castle and the waterfall trip and so far, both haven’t paned out. I did wander around and take in the beautiful architecture as it was a charming colonial city.

– I realized I needed more money and tried to go to a bank to exchange more cash for CUC. This time, the bank denied me as I didn’t have my original passport on me and they wouldn’t accept the photocopy (yet all the other banks in Cuba accept photocopies). So everything I do just adds to my frustration and I know I am getting worked up and just need a few minutes to calm down. So I grab a seat on a bench to find my happy place…when more locals come up and start whistling at me or making comments when they pass by and one sat down next me to and was so annoying I finally got up in a huff and left. I just can’t get any peace or quiet time.

– As I am walking away, I see another travel company and go in to ask about the El Nicho (better to spread my interest out in case they have a trip). They tell me they do not, but the first company I went to now has four people so I should be able to go. I was shocked but excited and headed back there. When I arrived, the same nice lady that helped me told me the story…they have 3 people with interest and they have to come back within 2 hours to pay but she think will. So I was misled again as there is not a trip for sure. At this point, I had a meltdown as I was so frustrated with everything failing in this city and told they tour lady that I just wanted to leave but was stuck. The next idea I had was to go to the city of Santa Clara which was supposed to be nice and have a huge memorial to Che Guevara that I was interested to see for a day. Only problem was there was only one bus a day (for tourists) and if left in the late afternoon so I would get in too late to do anything and if I stayed the next day to see the memorial, I would miss the only bus to the next city I wanted so I would have to spend 3 nights to see a memorial and I just didn’t want to spend my time that way. I knew there are other buses to take, but they are only for locals and they will not sell tickets to tourists (yet I saw these buses leave half empty). The hardest part is this city is only 1 hour away and in most countries cities that are so close like that have buses every 30-60 minutes so it’s not a big deal…but this is Cuba and everything is difficult there.

– As I felt at the end of my rope, I decided if I couldn’t get to El Nicho waterfall the next day, I was going to throw in the towel for Cuba and head to the beach town of Varadero. I always planned to end my trip there, but at this point, I was going to go earlier and just relax. So the first bit of good news was there was a weekend special leaving Cinefuego for Varadero the next morning and the package included transport and nights at a 4 star all-inclusive resort. This special is only for Cubans, but the tour lady said she could sell it to me too. So I was told to wait the 2 hours to see if the El Nicho tour came together and if not, I as going to book the trip to the beach. So I left the tour office and was going to go to the ice cream place Coppelia to get a treat and try to find some calmness for my crazy day. (Coppelia is the famous chain that I went to in Havana as well). Only problem was when I got there, they only allowed the locals in and the tourist only window wasn’t open at that time. I just had it as I really hate all the segregation and that’s the best way I could describe it. Too much for locals only or tourists only…I really think I understand a little better what it was like during the segregation years and it’s horrible!

– So I head back to my casa to sit in my room in peace, quiet, and air conditioning and just read. It’s frustrating as why am I in Cuba to sit and hid from people and things??? I just wanted to leave and for the first time on my whole trip…I felt trapped in Cuba. I couldn’t get get to a phone to try to call and change my ticket out. The Internet is so slow, I couldn’t even get on to try to change it. I did try and after 30 minutes, it barely loaded the Air Canada page (as there were so many graphics on the page).

– My only saving grace was I could go back to the tour office and get booked on this beach trip and just chill on the beach. So when I arrived to talk to the tour lady again…and she called to book me on, she got this sad look on her face when she hung up the phone. Ends up, the trip was full and there wasn’t a seat left on the bus. Another strike for me. I really felt like I was just going to cry in her office and she felt for me, but there was nothing she could do. I think I told her I just hated Cuba for all the things that happened to me that day and she couldn’t believe all the bad luck I had. So after talking to her, I just decided to take the tourist bus on my own and try to find my own accommodations in Varadero.

– At this point, I just wanted a drink somewhere pretty and remember reading that there were some fancy bars down at the southern end of the town and I just started to walk and walk for about 2 miles. I didn’t care as I was able to clear my head, figure out what I wanted to do and knew I would end up at a waterfront place for sunset cocktails and maybe dinner. After looking at a few places and the outrageous drink price, I didn’t stay. I know I should have, but I just didn’t want to spend that much money for a cocktail or beer. I ended up wandering into another fancy hotel and just sitting on a pool chair overlooking the bay and listened to my ipod for an hour as the sun went down. It ended up being really peaceful.

– On the way back, I was going to take a bus since it was a 2.5 mile walk and it was getting dark. When a bus came, it was for locals only and I just got on. I didn’t know where it was going and figured straight up the Malecon. I didn’t have small enough change (as the bus was 20 cents of local money) and I only had 5 pesos of local money (so 25 times the bus fare and the driver couldn’t make change). I was just going to give it all to him as it was still only about 30 US cents. But the driver just waved me on without paying, which was nice. Something went well. I then tested my luck again and went to grab dinner at a place my guidebook said was great pizza and cheap prices. It was a good sign when everyone inside was a local, except me. So when I sat down and looked at the menu, I was frustrated as they brought me a tourist menu, when I knew everyone else in there got a local menu. I asked for the other menu and they said I couldn’t have it and I had to order from this. So at that, I walked out as the prices were too high for what they were serving.

– Sadly…this one day in this one town just left me wanting to leave the country. Each of these events in itself aren’t a big deal, but when they all happened back to back and it’s so hot it’s unbearable…my limits were tested. I won’t say Cinefuego is a bad city, just my experience here wasn’t good based on a whole lot of circumstances.

– I also noticed it was the only city I was in on this whole trip where I didn’t take any photos with me in it.  I guess nothing was worthy of it or I was just not happy enough to want to be in any photos.